Orangery and Conservatory Cost Calculator

Q: What’s the real difference between an orangery and a conservatory (for cost)?

In simple terms: conservatories are usually more of a “glazed structure” (lighter roof options like polycarbonate or standard glass), while orangeries tend to be more “extension-like” with an insulated perimeter roof and often a roof lantern. That extra structure and insulation is a big reason orangery builds typically land higher.

Q: How much does the roof choice change the price?

Quite a lot. As a rule of thumb, polycarbonate is usually the lowest-cost roof route, standard glass sits above that, and solid/insulated orangery-style roofs (often with a lantern) sit at the upper end. Roof vents, solar control glass and a lantern/skylight can also shift the price.

Q: What costs are commonly missed in quotes?

Most surprises come from groundworks (weak soil, deeper foundations, drainage moves), access/scaffold, structural steel (if openings are widened), and the “make good” work (plastering, flooring, repainting). Electrics and heating upgrades can also add more than people expect.

Q: What should I compare to make sure quotes are like-for-like?

Check the big-ticket spec items first: roof system (polycarbonate vs glass vs insulated), glazing (double vs triple, solar control), and doors (French/patio/bi-fold). Then confirm what’s included: electrics (how many sockets/lights), internal finish (plastering/ceiling), waste removal, and making good to existing walls/flooring. Small spec differences are usually why prices look miles apart.

Postcode (for regional accuracy)

Project type Tip: orangeries usually include more brickwork + a solid roof with a lantern.

Style

House type (for planning quick check) Rear projection limits often differ for attached vs detached homes.

Within 2 metres of a boundary? If yes, eaves height is often more restricted.

Will it be separated from the house by external-quality doors? Open-plan setups are more likely to need Building Control sign-off.

Width (cm) Typical: 300–600 cm

Projection from wall (cm) Typical: 250–400 cm

Eaves height (cm) Common: 240–300 cm (higher needs checking)

Lower wall / brickwork More brickwork usually improves privacy + winter comfort, but costs more.

Wall finish (for brickwork)

Frame material

Glazing

Glass upgrade

Roof type

Roof vents Most useful on glass / hybrid roofs.

Lantern size Typical for orangeries (or flat roofs).

Main doors to garden Bi-folds look great on modern builds, but are the priciest option.

Door opening width (cm) If you’re unsure: 180–240 cm is common. Bigger = more panels/cost.

Internal finish

Electrics

Downlights

Heating UFH is popular in “extension-feel” builds (costs more but feels premium).

Planning / drawings pack If your size triggers planning, we’ll add a typical allowance.

Include installation (incl. VAT)

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We’re a Home Improvement Agency — these prices are estimates only and may vary by supplier.

Our customers typically pay around 30% less than going direct, thanks to our quote-matching and negotiation system, and our checks on product and installer standards.

Orangery & Conservatory Cost Calculator — Quick notes

What’s included in the estimate?

It’s a mid-market supply + install estimate (incl. VAT) based on your size, roof, glazing, brickwork and common upgrades. Ground conditions, access issues, drainage moves, and bespoke structural steel can change real quotes.

Do I need planning permission?

Often you won’t — but projection, height and being close to boundaries can trigger planning or a “prior approval” route. We flag likely cases and can include a planning/drawings allowance.

Why does “orangery” usually cost more?

More brickwork, a more solid roof build-up, and a lantern (often) increase labour + materials. It typically feels more like a true extension.

How to use this calculator

Enter your postcode first (this applies a regional factor).
Choose Build Type → Orangery or Conservatory.
Select a style (e.g. lean-to, Victorian/Edwardian, gable, contemporary).
Enter your main dimensions: width and projection (and height if prompted). The calculator will show typical ranges under the fields.
Pick your frame material and glazing (double/triple), then add key upgrades like roof type, lantern/skylights, and ventilation.
Add your doors (French/patio/bi-fold) and any extras (spotlights, electrics, heating basics) if available.
Click Add to list to build a full project estimate.

Examples

Typical conservatory: uPVC frame + double glazing + polycarbonate or glass roof + French doors.
Modern orangery: insulated perimeter roof + roof lantern + triple glazing upgrade + bi-fold doors.

Assumptions & limits

Estimates are mid-market and include VAT.
Installation is included if the checkbox is ticked.
Postcode-based regional factor adjusts labour and typical local pricing.
Prices assume a standard, straightforward build. Groundworks, drainage moves, structural steel, and major electrics/heating upgrades can add costs.

We’ll work to beat the price range shown by negotiating with vetted installers and checking specs are like-for-like.

Quick note:
Lower-end guide prices usually assume a straightforward build on an existing suitable base, standard double glazing, and a simpler roof (polycarbonate or basic glass for conservatories). Higher-end prices typically reflect “extension-like” specs — insulated orangery roof perimeter with a roof lantern, triple glazing upgrades, larger bi-fold/patio openings, stronger thermal performance, and more electrics/heating/finishing work. If the footprint is over ~3m² or you’re changing structure/openings, factor in Building Control and drawings as well.

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Orangery & Conservatory Cost Calculator – FAQs

What’s the real difference between an orangery and a conservatory (for cost)?

In simple terms: conservatories are usually more “glazed structure” (lighter roof options like polycarbonate or standard glass), while orangeries tend to be more “extension-like” with an insulated perimeter roof and often a roof lantern. That extra structure and insulation is a big reason orangery builds typically land higher.

How much does the roof choice change the price?

Quite a lot. As a rule of thumb, polycarbonate is usually the lowest-cost roof route, standard glass sits above that, and solid/insulated orangery-style roofs (often with a lantern) sit at the upper end. Roof vents, solar control glass and a lantern/skylight can also shift the price.

How can I make the estimate more accurate before I request quotes?

Use your closest real measurements (width and projection), then choose the roof type you actually want (polycarbonate vs glass vs insulated orangery roof). After that, add the big-ticket items that change pricing the most: door type (French/patio/bi-fold), glazing level (double vs triple), and any roof lantern/skylights. Finally, keep the “include installation” toggle consistent with what you expect—quotes vary a lot depending on what’s included in the finish.

What costs are commonly missed in quotes?

Most surprises come from groundworks (weak soil, deeper foundations, drainage moves), access/scaffold, structural steel (if openings are widened), and the “make good” work (plastering, flooring, repainting). Electrics and heating upgrades can also add more than people expect.

What should I compare to make sure quotes are like-for-like?

Check the big-ticket spec items first: roof system (polycarbonate vs glass vs insulated), glazing (double vs triple, solar control), and doors (French/patio/bi-fold). Then confirm what’s included: electrics (how many sockets/lights), internal finish (plastering/ceiling), waste removal, and making good to existing walls/flooring. Small spec differences are usually why prices look miles apart.