Garage Doors
Types, Materials, Automation, and What to Watch Out For
1) Door Types (how they open)
Up-and-Over (canopy/retractable)
Pros: Simple, affordable, wide colour choice.
Cons: Canopy version swings out — needs driveway clearance; weaker sealing; lower insulation.
Good for: Basic security and budget projects.
Space needs: 20–60 mm side room; ~150–200 mm headroom (varies).
Sectional
Pros: Excellent sealing and insulation (panelled, rubber seals on all sides), no swing-out, very secure.
Cons: Higher cost than up-and-over; needs ceiling track space.
Good for: Energy efficiency, integral garages, low driveways.
Space needs: Typically 90–120 mm side room; ~200–300 mm headroom.
Roller (insulated or single-skin)
Pros: Compact; no internal tracks across the ceiling; good security when well-specified; ideal for short driveways.
Cons: Cheaper single-skin versions are noisy/poorly insulated; narrow slats = more moving parts.
Space needs: Box at lintel (~205–300 mm) unless external box is used.
Side-Hinged (swing doors)
Pros: Zero ceiling tracks; easy pedestrian access; classic look.
Cons: Needs outward clearance; wind can catch doors; insulation depends on spec.
Good for: Garages used like a room/workshop.
Side-Sliding
Pros: Great when headroom is very limited; partial opening for pedestrian access.
Cons: Needs clear wall length; track cleanliness matters for smooth running.
2) Materials (and what they mean in practice)
Steel (galvanised, often foam-filled panels)
Pros: Strong, secure, cost-effective, huge finish range.
Cons: Can dent; thermal bridges if poorly designed; coastal corrosion risk without proper coatings.
Aluminium
Pros: Lightweight, corrosion-resistant (coastal friendly), common for roller doors; sleek modern look.
Cons: Slightly lower inherent stiffness vs steel—spec matters (extruded profiles outperform thin single-skin).
Timber (hardwood/softwood)
Pros: Premium, timeless appearance; repairable.
Cons: Needs periodic finishing; weight can stress hardware; insulation depends on construction.
GRP / Fibreglass & Composites
Pros: Wood-look without the maintenance; stable and weather-resistant.
Cons: Can be pricier; quality varies—look for reputable laminates and cores.
uPVC (less common for main door leaf)
Pros: Low maintenance, good for side-hinged sets in some ranges.
Cons: Lower structural strength; limited sizes/styles.
3) Insulation & Weather Performance
Panel cores: Polyurethane (PU) foam panels (typically 40–45 mm in sectionals) offer excellent U-values; polystyrene cores are middling; single-skin steel or aluminium has little thermal benefit.
Seals: Look for 4-sided sealing (top, bottom, sides) with flexible rubber profiles and thermal breaks in frames.
U-values: Whole-door U-value matters more than panel U-value; compare like for like.
Condensation: Better insulation and continuous seals reduce internal condensation in winter.
4) Security
Construction: Double-skinned, foam-filled panels with robust hinges/rollers resist attack better than single-skin sheets.
Locking: For manual doors, multi-point locking and anti-lift brackets are key. For rollers, specify auto-locking (anti-lift) mechanisms and a reinforced bottom slat.
Automation security: Use openers with rolling-code remotes and secure motor locking; disable exterior emergency release or protect it from fishing on outward-facing garages.
Accreditations: In the UK, look for products tested to recognized standards and schemes such as UKCA (or CE) compliance and, for enhanced security, options that are Secured by Design (police-preferred specification) where available.
5) Manual vs Electric (automation)
Manual
Pros: Cheapest, fewer parts to maintain, works during power cuts.
Cons: Heavier doors are inconvenient; more wear on springs/handles; generally less secure than a motor-held door.
Electric / Automated
Pros: Convenience, soft-start/stop reduces wear, motor acts as a lock on some designs, smart features.
Cons: Higher initial cost; needs safe installation and periodic checks; relies on power/battery backup.
What to look for in an opener
Drive type:
Belt-drive – quiet, ideal for integral garages.
Chain-drive – robust, slightly noisier.
Direct-drive/shaft (jackshaft) – mounts to the side; great for high-lift/roller/sectional doors.
Safety: Obstacle detection with auto-reverse, photo-beams, force monitoring, and manual release.
Smart control: Wi-Fi app control, geofencing, temporary guest codes, integration with voice assistants.
Battery backup: Keeps working during outages—handy if the garage is the only entry.
6) Standards, Compliance & Installer Competence (UK focus)
Product compliance: Look for UKCA (or CE) marking with a Declaration of Performance for garage doors to EN 13241 (safety and performance of industrial, commercial, garage doors).
Powered doors: Safety in use is governed by standards such as EN 12453 (requirements) and EN 12604/12605 (mechanical aspects/testing). Your paperwork should state compliance.
Wind/snow loads: Relevant for exposed sites; ask for tested ratings.
Thermal & acoustic data: Request whole-door U-value and dB reduction figures where important.
Installer credentials: Membership of recognised trade bodies (e.g., DHF – Door & Hardware Federation) indicates training on legal and safety responsibilities. Ask for proof of public liability insurance and manufacturer approval status.
7) Finish, Design & Options
Finishes: Powder-coated RAL colours, woodgrains, microrib/smooth/cassette panel designs.
Glazing: Window cassettes for sectionals/side-hinged; consider double-glazed units and toughened glass.
Hardware: Stainless fixtures for coastal areas; heavy-duty rollers/hinges improve lifespan.
Thresholds & drainage: Low thresholds reduce trip hazards; check for effective rainwater management.
8) Space & Site Constraints (measure before you choose)
Headroom: Crucial for sectional and roller boxes; measure from lintel to ceiling/obstructions (openers, beams, pipes).
Backroom & sideroom: Needed for tracks and frames; side-sliding needs clear wall length.
Driveway slope: Up-and-over and side-hinged doors can clash with steep slopes.
Ceiling clutter: If you need clear ceiling space (for storage), roller or side-hinged suits better.
9) Maintenance & Lifespan
Typical lifespans:
Sectional/roller (quality brands): 15–25+ years with periodic service.
Up-and-over: 10–20 years, depending on usage and finish.
Timber: finish maintenance every 2–4 years.
Annual checks: Clean tracks, test auto-reverse/photo-eyes, lubricate rollers/hinges, inspect seals and spring balance.
Common issues: Frayed belts/chains, fatigued springs, dented slats, failed limit settings, worn seals. Early servicing prevents expensive failures.
10) Price Landscape (UK — broad guide)
(Wide ranges; brand, size, finish, insulation, and automation drive price.)
Up-and-over (manual): from ~£1000–£2,000 (single).
Sectional: ~£1,800–£3,500 (single); doubles £2,300–£5,000+.
Roller (insulated): ~£1500–£3,000 (single) depending on slat quality/box size.
Side-hinged: ~£1,800–£3,300+.
Automation kits: typically +£500–£1000, more for premium/smart units or jackshaft drives.
Quality installation and aftercare often matter more than squeezing the last £300 from the quote.
11) Quick Comparison (at a glance)
Best insulation: Sectional (PU-filled, thick panels).
Tight driveways/low headroom: Roller or side-sliding.
Lowest upfront cost: Up-and-over (manual).
Quietest automation: Belt or direct-drive openers.
Lowest maintenance: Aluminium/steel with quality coatings.
Classic look & walk-in access: Side-hinged.
12) Buying Checklist
Confirm headroom/sideroom/backroom measurements.
Decide insulation level (single-skin vs foam-filled; ask for whole-door U-value).
Check UKCA/CE compliance docs; for powered doors, confirm safety features and standards.
Compare hardware specs (rollers, hinges, springs) and seal quality.
Ask about warranty (door, motor, finish) and service intervals.
For coastal/rural exposure, specify enhanced coatings and stainless hardware.
If security is critical, look for Secured by Design options and anti-lift features.
Read the maintenance requirements before you buy.